There are two ways to put a hitting bay in your house. You can build a fixed enclosure that lives in the room permanently, or you can hang a retractable screen that drops down to play and lifts into the ceiling when you are done.
We build the retractable kind, so read this knowing that. We have also tried to be honest about where a fixed enclosure is the better buy, because it genuinely is for some rooms.
The short version
Buy a fixed enclosure if the room is dedicated to golf and nothing else. It is simpler, cheaper at the entry level, and there is nothing to fail.
Buy a retractable screen if the room has another job. A garage you park in, a basement the family uses, a bonus room that is also a playroom. That is the entire case, and for most people it is decisive.
Side by side
| Fixed enclosure | Retractable screen | |
|---|---|---|
| Room stays usable | No | Yes |
| Entry price | Lower | Higher |
| Moving parts | None | Motors and a remote |
| Ball containment | Full, including ceiling | Rear and sides |
| Install | Frame assembly, floor-standing | Ceiling or joist mounting, plus power |
| Setup time per session | None, it is always there | Under a minute, one button |
| Resale and moving | Disassemble and take it | Unmount and take it |
The case for fixed
A fixed enclosure is a frame, an impact screen, and netting. Nothing moves, so nothing breaks. If you have a room whose only purpose is golf, the enclosure is the obvious answer and we would tell you the same thing on the phone.
It also contains the ball better. A full enclosure has a ceiling baffle and side netting that catch a thinned wedge or a skied drive. That matters if you are early in your golf life or if there is drywall and a water heater directly behind the bay.
And the entry price is lower. Screen-and-frame kits start well below what a motorized system costs, because a motor, a tube, a controller and a remote are real hardware.
The case for retractable
The case is one sentence: you get the room back.
That sounds like a nice-to-have until you price out what a fixed enclosure actually costs you. In most American houses the garage is the only space with the width, depth and height for a simulator. Converting it permanently means giving up parking, storage, or both. People do the math on the screen and forget to do the math on the garage.
A retractable system removes that trade. The screens come down when you want to hit and go back up when you are done. The room reverts to a garage, a gym, a poker room, whatever it was. We built the company around this because it was the only version of a home simulator that we personally wanted to live with.
The second, quieter benefit is height. A permanent frame and ceiling baffle occupy their space forever. A retractable system stows into compact housings, 7 in by 7 in for the main impact screen and 4 in by 4 in for each side screen, so a marginal room stops being marginal the moment you are not using it.
Where retractable is the wrong call
We would rather tell you now than after you have paid freight.
- You want full ball containment. A retractable system covers the rear and both sides. It does not put netting over your head. If you are teaching a beginner or the room is unforgiving behind the bay, a full enclosure is the safer buy.
- You cannot mount to structure. Motorized screens have to attach to studs or joists, or to rated heavy-duty toggle bolts. Never drywall alone. If the mounting surface is not there, the project is not there.
- You want the cheapest possible entry. A screen and frame will always undercut a motorized system. If the room is dedicated and the budget is the constraint, take the frame.
- You do not want moving parts. Some people simply do not, and that is a legitimate preference on a system that lives over their heads.
What to check on any retractable system
If you have decided retractable is right, these are the specs that separate them. Most listings bury at least one.
- Are the side screens included, or an add-on? This is the single biggest hidden cost in the category. Side screens are what make the difference between a bay and a screen on a wall. Every Home Fairway size includes two motorized 8 ft side screens in the base price.
- How high do the screens run? A screen that tops out at 10 ft in a room with a 10 ft ceiling is a compromise. Ours run to 11 ft by default.
- How many plies is the impact screen? Ply count drives durability and how much noise the screen makes at impact. Ours is 3-ply.
- Is the remote RF or infrared? Infrared needs line of sight. RF works through walls, which matters when the controller lives in a cabinet.
- What is on standard power? A standard 110V outlet should be enough. If it needs an electrician, that is a real line item.
- What is the actual lead time? Two to three weeks is common in this category. Ours is 5 to 10 business days on the Fairway 12.
- What is the warranty on the motor, not just the fabric? Motors are the part that can fail. Ours carry a 2-year limited warranty.
How to decide in five minutes
Ask yourself one question: if the screen were permanently in the way, would anyone in the house complain?
If the answer is no, buy a fixed enclosure and enjoy the savings. If the answer is yes, or if the answer is 'well, we would lose the garage,' a retractable system is worth the difference and you will feel it every day.
Not sure which side you fall on? Send us your room dimensions and what else the room is used for. We will tell you honestly, including when the answer is a fixed enclosure from someone else.
Call or text 817-458-8556, email admin@summitvantagellc.com, or use the contact page.
Keep reading: Golf simulator room size guide · How a motorized retractable screen works · See all sizes and prices