FAQ

Pull a tape across the wall you want to hit into. You need one continuous run of clear width, outside bracket to outside bracket.

The rule is the same at every size: your impact screen size, plus 4 1/8 in for the brackets.

Tolerance is +/- 1/8 in.

That is the whole check. It takes two minutes. If it does not clear, send us the number and we will size a custom.

Two different numbers get confused here, so both are below.

The enclosure footprint is how far the side screens run back from the wall: about 9 ft.

The room needs to be deeper than that, because you have to stand in it.

Depth breaks down as about 1 ft behind the screen, 10 to 12 ft tee to screen, and 7 ft behind you. You can cut that last number to 4 ft and it still works, but it is the first thing you will feel.

Do not use the 9 ft as your room depth. The 9 ft is the enclosure. The 15 to 18 ft is the room.

The screen mounts to the ceiling and the drop is adjustable, so you set how far it comes down and stop it where you want. A low ceiling does not rule it out. What it costs you is club selection.

Around 8 ft, most players are fine working irons and may not clear driver and woods. How much you clear depends on your height and your swing, so a taller player or a steeper, more upright swing needs more room than a shorter or flatter one. That is the room, not the product, and it is your call to make.

Measure to the lowest thing overhead, not to the ceiling. Garage door track, light fixtures, ductwork. That is where people lose their margin.

Usually, yes. The 12 ft is the size most two-car garages take. Because the screens retract, the room goes back to being a garage when you are done and the cars come back in.

Check the garage door track before anything else. That is the lowest thing overhead in most garages, and there is a whole section on it below.

Ceiling height and the width of the wall you want to mount on. For an awkward space, also the peak height, the sim width, and whether that ceiling number is clear or measured at the rails.

Start with the wall. Pick the largest size your clear width allows, then confirm your ceiling and swing clearance. A bigger screen makes a better simulator, and with a retractable you only lose an overlapped doorway while you are actually hitting.

Current pricing for each size is on the product pages.

• 12 ft x 13 ft: mount on the 13 ft wall, not the 12. The 12 ft wall comes up about 4 in short. The 13 ft wall leaves roughly 8 in to play with.
• 18 ft wide x 32 ft long, 12 ft ceiling: clears with about 5 ft 8 in spare. At 32 ft long the hitting area sits well back, so no projector shadow and room for seating behind.
• 13.5 to 14 ft wall, 9.5 ft ceiling, 16 to 16.5 ft long: fits clean.

Worth checking before you settle on a layout. A side screen covers anything mounted on that wall: A/C units, shelving, panels. One customer's A/C unit ruled out their preferred layout outright.

A complete motorized retractable screen set:

• The rear 3-ply impact screen, motorized
• Two motorized side screens up to 8 ft deep, both included in the base price
• The RF remote
• The mounting brackets
• A quick start guide

Yes, the brackets are included. Fasteners are not.

What you fasten with depends on what you are mounting into, so we do not ship a bag of hardware that may be wrong for your structure. You want lag screws into studs or joists, or properly rated heavy duty toggle bolts. Never drywall on its own.

Ceiling panel, corner pieces, baffles, fasteners, and installation. On the electronics side: launch monitor, projector, computer, hitting mat and turf.

That split is deliberate. The enclosure is the part of the room that does not change, which is why a lot of people put it in first and add the rest as budget allows. Two people with the same enclosure might spend $600 or $6,000 on what goes in front of it.

All three screens retract together on one tap, about 20 seconds. All three are motorized and roll up into their housings. Nothing is manual.

With the RF remote that comes with it. It does not need line of sight, so it works from across the room or through a wall.

The remote runs screen 1, 2 and 3 each on its own, in any combination, so you can bring one down and leave the other two up. Screen 1 is the main impact screen. That is how you clear the space to get a car out.

You will still have a projector and a screen up there. What you will not have is a bulky fixed enclosure you cannot move.

Matt's own install sits about 8 in off the ceiling, but only because he added a padded drop ceiling. The rollers themselves do not need that much room.

Yes. The impact screen doubles as a projection screen. Bring the main screen down on its own, leave the sides up, and you have a movie wall. Hit balls into it on Saturday morning, watch the game on it Saturday night.

No Velcro. The side screens sit offset from the main screen and run straight back toward you. The offset is what catches a poorly struck ball and keeps it inside the sim.

7 in minimum offset. In practice 6 to 12 in each side. Offset more for newer players, less for better ball strikers. Shanks do not carry the speed a pure strike does, so the sides are really just there to stop a poorly struck ball.

Yes. The rear screen is a 3-ply impact screen built for real ball speed, including driver at residential swing speeds.

Impact noise depends on ply count, screen tension and the acoustics of your room, so there is no one number that is honest for every space. A garage with hard walls is louder than a finished basement.

Each of the three motorized screens has its own plug-in lead for a standard 120V outlet. They do not need three separate outlets, and we recommend plugging them into a surge protector. No special circuit, no 220V, no hardwiring.

Wipe your golf balls and your club faces. Dirt is what marks a screen, not the ball speed.

You do, or you hire someone. It is a straightforward DIY for anyone handy. Most of our customers have an electrician hang it, and a handyman service can do it too.

It is mounting brackets and hanging a roller, about like putting up curtain rods, just heavier.

The installation overview walks through the whole job, from site checks to the first test run.

Studs or joists, or properly rated heavy duty toggle bolts. Never drywall on its own.

Once it is up it is as solid as anything you would frame yourself. It just also goes up.

• Brackets mount vertically or horizontally. Tight against a side wall in the right orientation, you skip the shimming on that side entirely.
• Building or remodeling? Put solid blocking where the brackets land before the drywall goes up.
• Vaulted ceiling? Across the vault, shim down with extruded aluminum or unistrut. Along the wall, add blocking attached to the structure.

Yes. Enter your email and we will send it straight over, along with the spec sheet and motor guide.

Do the site check in Section 3 of the guide before you order. It takes ten minutes and it answers most fit questions before you ever have to ask one.

Not always. If the unit clears the garage door track completely, it mounts right up at the ceiling. No shimming.

If it does not clear, the assembly gets shimmed down with extruded aluminum or unistrut and threaded rod until it does.

The garage door tracks and openers guide walks through every layout.

Hit toward the house instead of toward the door. No shimming, no opener and no rail to work around. Cheaper and easier whenever the depth allows it.

If the garage door travels above the screens when they are down, fit a shut off or lockout so the door cannot be opened while you are hitting. Someone taps the opener in the car and the door rolls open overhead, right into the space you are swinging in. Highly recommended.

We usually recommend pulling the center rail and moving the opener to a wall mount jackshaft. Two reasons:

1. The ceiling gets crowded fast once a projector goes up, and more with an overhead launch monitor.
2. Indoor swing syndrome. If part of your brain is worried about hitting something, your swing shortens and flattens and you will not notice it happening.

Mounting a jackshaft unit is straightforward for a capable DIYer, given solid blocking, or a 2x6 lagged into studs if there is none.

Never touch the torsion spring. Winding or unwinding one takes winding bars and training. These springs are genuinely dangerous.

Two things make it a professional's job:

• The door must already be balanced. If it is not, that is spring work.
• It must be a torsion spring door. A jackshaft cannot drive extension springs, and converting is spring work.

Standard widths from 8 ft to 16 ft. Custom builds cover 8 ft to 16 ft wide and 8 ft to 14 ft of drop.

Every standard size ships in 5 to 10 days. Custom widths get their lead time with the quote.

If you are working to a date, tell us the date and we will tell you straight whether it works.

The drop is adjustable, so you stop it wherever you want. Custom drops run 8 ft to 14 ft.

Every size drops up to 10 ft with no seam. The Fairway 8 and Fairway 10 can go longer with no seam. On the Fairway 12, 14 and 16, drops over 10 ft carry a seam; if your ceiling is taller than that, you have three options: shim the assembly down to 10 ft with aluminum extrusions, use a spacer piece, or take the full length with the seam.

Yes. Send us your room dimensions and how the space is framed and we will quote it.

Standard sizes check out on the site, paid in full, no deposit.

For a custom build we send you a custom order to pay, or a QuickBooks invoice, whichever suits you. Same terms: paid in full, no deposit.

You get an email confirmation with your lead time. You get tracking as soon as it ships.

Contact us right away. Changes are straightforward early on. Once your order is being prepared to ship, cancelling gets difficult.

All of them. Overhead, radar, camera based, it does not matter to the screen.

Which one you should buy is a different question, and the honest answer starts with your room.

Recommendations as of October 3, 2026. This market moves fast, so check the date.

Radar units sit 7 to 9 ft behind the ball, and you still need ball flight out to the screen. They want 15 ft or more of room depth. In a 12 ft deep room that rules out most of the cheap end before you have compared a single spec.

Measure first. It will save you a return.

GSPro is $250/yr and carries over 2,500 courses.

The bundle most people should price out: ProTee VX plus GSPro is about $6,750 the first year, then $250/yr.

Square Golf running cost is the one people get wrong in both directions. No subscription on Square's own software. 10 courses built in, one credit per hole, and the 1,000 welcome credits are about 55 rounds. Another 1,000 credits is $19.99. Realistically $20 to $40 a year.

Square connects to GSPro through Square's own connector, SQG GSPRO Connect, which you download from Square's support page. You still pay GSPro's $250/yr.

Ground units sit right in the hitting area. Matt's would not have survived a month with his teenager and friends swinging at it. Factor that in if the room is going to get used by more than you.

• Premium: Uneekor EYE XO plus the BenQ LK936ST 4K laser. A true forever setup, ceiling mounted, works right handed and left handed.
• Mid, and the best value of the three: Uneekor EYE Mini plus the Optoma GT2400HDR short-throw laser.
• Budget: Square Golf plus the BenQ LW600ST+ short-throw LED.

Every projector here is one we sell, with the mount and in-wall rated cable to hang it. The projector finder matches one to your Fairway size and room light.

Projectors, yes. Short-throw lasers and LEDs sized for a Fairway sim, plus the ceiling mounts and in-wall rated HDMI to hang one. See projectors and sim add-ons.

Mats, yes. Our own Stance hitting mats in 4 x 5, 4 x 7 and 4 x 9 ft, each with a 12 x 30 in strip you replace when it wears. See hitting mats and turf.

Launch monitors, not yet. We are adding them as we line up brands we can stand behind.

All of them. What matters is throw distance, which comes straight off how far back you can mount it, and that is your room depth number again.

Does a projector get in the way of a retractable screen? No. Almost all of them ceiling mount behind where you stand and fire forward. The screen lives at the front wall, so the two never share space. Nothing moves when the screen goes up or down.

Room light matters. More light in the room means you need a brighter projector.

• Get a mat that lets the club pass through. A good mat compresses on a clean strike and resists a fat one. A hard mat stops the club dead and your joints pay for it.
• Stay away from thin turf-over-foam mats. Those are the ones that hurt people.
• Skip folding mats. They fold by creasing the foam, and the crease sits right where you stand. Owners report sagging inside a year. The fold is the whole feature and the first thing to go.
• On concrete, put a subpad under it.

Current pricing is on the product page.

When you need them: any build shimmed down to clear garage door tracks, because that puts the ceiling closer to the ball than a normal room would. Also any finished room under about 10 ft. At 9.5 ft you will catch the ceiling with a driver sooner or later.

Do it before the room is finished. Much easier to solve now than after there is a mark in fresh paint.

Anywhere in the contiguous lower 48, straight to your door. No Alaska, Hawaii, Canada or international.

It comes on a large truck and it is normally curbside. You need to be there to receive it and sign for it, and you should look it over before you sign.

Note the damage on the delivery receipt before you sign it, photograph it, and call us the same day at 817-458-8556.

If the packaging looked fine and you find damage once you unpack, send us photos within 5 days of delivery and keep the packaging until we confirm.

Freight damage is covered. Noting it on the receipt is what makes the claim straightforward, so do that first even if the box only looks a little rough.

2 year warranty on the electronics, motor, remote and hardware.

The screens are a consumable. They are what the ball hits, thousands of times, so they wear the way a hitting mat or a golf ball wears. They are not covered by the warranty.

The warranty runs from your purchase date and covers the original purchaser.

Anything damaged in freight or defective out of the box is covered no matter what, screens included.

Call, text or email us with your order number, photos of the problem, and a short description of what it is doing. We will tell you what happens next.

30 days on every size, with a 15 percent restocking fee.

Any size, and the impact padding, can be returned within 30 days of delivery, unused and in its original packaging. A 15 percent restocking fee comes off the refund, and you pay the return freight.

Before you order, send us your room numbers and we will confirm the fit for free. That is the cheapest return there is.

The restocking fee never applies to a defect or to freight damage. Those are covered on every size, at our cost. The full policy is on the returns page.

A brand of Summit Vantage LLC in Aledo, Texas, just west of Fort Worth. Father and son, Matt and Kade Olsen.

We sell the same system we use in our own game room.

Because we are new and we do not buy fake ones. When real customers leave real reviews, they will be here.

We are a registered Texas company, you can reach us directly by phone, text or email, and our overhead is low by design. We are building this to last.

Two reasons. There is no dealer margin stacked on top of your price, and when you need warranty support you are talking to the people who sold you the system, not to a middleman.